This tutorial is about how to make parallel-eye or cross eye stereograms - plain stereo images, not the commercially popular "random dot" stereograms - with Poser. It also does not cover anaglyph stereograms (the kind where you use special glasses).
As with some of my other tutorials, there's a lot more to read than to see.
Hope it helps, though!
The ladies are more fully dressed than in the original - a tutorial shouldn't have to be "mature content"!
I will assume you know your software well
You'll need Poser, or maybe DAZ|Studio. I'm not sure if DAZ has an equivalent of Poser's Dolly Camera (which you need). I will use the Poser names for this and other tools - if you are using DAZ, you will have to figure out the DAZ equivalents from my description of how you use the tools. In any case I will assume you know your software well.
You will also need an image editor: Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro will do nicely. Simpler image editors might work, especially if they support layers.
You don't want it much bigger, or it will be hard for viewers to cross or uncross their eyes
Set your render dimensions on the small side, and higher than wide. I typically make my stereo images 480 wide by 960 high; in combination, when left and right are put side by side, they will make a 960x960 square. You don't want it much bigger, or it will be hard for viewers to cross or uncross their eyes far enough to see the image in stereo. (You don't want it *very* much smaller either, or you'll lose a lot of detail.)
In Poser, use the Dolly Camera. (Does DAZ|Studio have an equivalent camera? If so, you can do this in DAZ without difficulty. Otherwise it's going to be a pain.) All the other Poser cameras point toward the "center of the world" (main, aux, left, right, top, bottom) or toward a particular object (face, posing, left hand, right hand). The dolly camera points in the direction you specify.
Set up the Dolly Camera (see image on the left) so it is pointing at the figure in the way you want the figure to be seen. THEN, move it about 0.1 to 0.2 feet (2.5 to 5 cm) to the left.
This is easy if you are pointing straight ahead (Yaw 0): adjust the dollyX setting. If you are pointing to the left (Yaw 90) or right (Yaw -90) adjust the DollyZ setting. If you are viewing diagonally, you need to adjust both DollyX and DollyZ.
The view you have now is what the viewer's left eye will see (if it's a parallel-eye stereogram) or what their right eye will see (if it's cross-eye).
I was viewing at a Yaw angle of 25 degrees. I found that changing the DollyZ by -0.1 foot and the DollyX by 0.2 feet worked well. It's not perfect, but it doesn't have to be; Aisha is ever-so-slightly closer in the second image, and therefore a little larger - but the eye adjusts for such very slight differences in size.
Render and fix any remaining problems. (Aisha's bikini was too small in back! I didn't notice that until the mirror view revealed it.) When you have made a successful render, save it. (
Left side of the finished stereogram)
NOW, go to the next frame in your animation control. Adjust the camera about 0.2 to 0.4 feet (5 to 10 cm) to the RIGHT. (This is the other eye's view.) Render again. You shouldn't need to render this one a second time. (
Right side of the finished stereogram)
It's nice to exaggerate the stereo effect a little, but if you do it too much, the scene will look doll-like
0.4 feet is about 4 inches or 10 cm - wider apart than most people's eyes. The more distance between the two views, the more stereo effect you will get. It's nice to exaggerate the stereo effect a little, but if you do it too much (say, 1 foot or more), the scene will look doll-like, as if you were looking at miniatures at arm's length or less. If that's what you want, do it! Ordinarily you won't.
Finished stereogram:
Now for the easy part! Open both renders in your image editor. Create a "new" image the same height as your renders, but twice as wide.
Copy and paste the first render into the new image. If you are doing parallel-eye, put it on the left; if cross-eye, put it on the right. Then copy and paste the second render to the other side of the new image.
If you use a signature, as I do, you should probably make it stereo too. That means making two of them, at the same vertical position but horizontally a little different. (For this cross-eye stereogram, I moved the left-side sig a little to the left, so it will appear closer than the rest of the image.) I recommend not using a visible watermark, since this will look distinctly bizarre in "stereo".
(I put my "left" sig at 410 horizontal and 920 vertical, my "right" sig at 930 horizontal and 920 vertical. You may need to experiment.)
Congratulations, you're done!
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